Afloat in Provence

I routinely hear woebegone tales of trip disruptions. River cruises, in particular, have notable commentary regarding ports missed, extra hours spent backtracking on motorcoaches to reach skipped spots due to high/low water levels. Totally legit feedback, having experienced such a stoppage on a recent Burgundy/Provence cruise. This unexpected extended stay turned out tres magnifique!

Our AmaWaterways ship AmaCello embarkation was scheduled for Dijon; ultimately, the ship docked four nights in Lyon due to high winds causing swift currents. The Rhone was a rockin’! Prior to departure, AmaWaterways handled this impressively with 3 pickup options from Dijon, Geneva, and Lyon to ship by motorcoach. Having visited Paris pre cruise, an hour away by train, the Dijon rendezvous suited us perfectly.   

The scheduled itinerary: Dijon – Chalon sur Saone – Villefranche sur Saone / Macon – Lyon – Viviers – Avignon – Arles. The actual: Lyon - Vienne – Viviers – Avignon – Arles, covering most of the original terrain by comfy coaches. AMA even handed out 25EUR per person for lunch the day we had back to back excursions to Tournus and Beaujolais, nice!

Aahhh, Lyon. From its infamous Roman ruins, Renaissance art, and medieval traboules (discreet covered alleyways), to its quenelles ( delicious dumplings), cobbled, quaint Lyon was exquisitely delightful. Four days was not nearly enough to cover this walkable, friendly city. Many Lyon lessons learned… it sits at the confluence of the Saone & Rhone Rivers, claims the birthplace of cinema (and author Antoine Saint-Exupery, Le Petit Prince), is a foodie capital and 3^rd largest city in France, offering an antiques & vintage shoppers paradise, while attracting traditional to contemporary museum lovers.  Medieval meets modern in lively, enchanting Lyon.

Walking about from the ship, we traversed parks, viewed outdoor sculptures & monuments, visited coffee shops, cafes, strolling along with locals, aiming to soak up every Lyonnaise moment. A return trip is certain.

Once underway with sunny skies, Captain Adam (McDreamy) skillfully navigated multiple locks amid stretches of choppy waters, safely docking us for smooth connections to our excursions. Most memorable: the manor vineyards at Maconnais & Beaujolais with bottle room tastings hosted by the owners… an estate truffle farm visit in Grignan (with dogs actively hunting, even got to pet the lovable Labs!)…

... a sunny day Vienne bike tour along the Rhone guided by Adrian, our onboard fitness instructor…and oh, the Papal Palace! Terraced gardens framing a colossal, majestic fortress. Inside, a labyrinth of breathtaking art, statuary, sacred alcoves, divine spaces. A guide is essential to truly absorb the scale and significance of history, religion, and culture.

Our seven night Provence cruise and local immersions elevated our appreciation for the magnitude of French history, gastronomy, and wine culture. Overall, the AmaCello staff made limoncello from lemons. We feasted like A listers in the main dining room, where delectable, inventive cuisine was served nightly by engaging staff. The chef was a regular visitor, stopping at every table to chat.

A special treat: The Chef’s Table. Every guest onboard has the opportunity to enjoy this gourmet treat, situated aft with 180 degree water view. Savory wine paired courses featuring PanAsian, French traditional, and globally inspired cuisine. Epic, memorable… top down, bottom up, five stars!

Ok, so we missed a few ports. It neither damped our spirits nor negated our experience. Meeting like minded gadabouts (Canadians, love ‘em!), we shared meals, shore excursions, explored new frontiers together, and communally decided that the joy of travel is really about the journey and the fun folks we meet along the way. Detours can be priceless.